MAUI - Visit any corner of the globe, no matter how small or remote, and you will always find a native cuisine. For millennia, people have used the raw ingredients that could be found around them and whatever cooking techniques were available to them to create dishes that were regionally unique and hopefully tastier than the sum of their parts. Over time, some of these regional food items became so popular that people began to capitalize on their production and sale. As is often the case in the business world, once the word gets out there is money to be made other entrepreneurs will jump on the bandwagon and a rivalry is born. It could be something as selective as who has the best bowl of noodles in town or something as vast as who makes the best Bar-B-Que in the country. These rivalries are often the topic of heated discussions and, whether local or National, are taken very seriously.

Having been born and raised in Chicago, I am no stranger to this food fanaticism. Ask 100 Chicagoans what their favorite pizza joint is and, you’ll likely get 100 different answers. Pizza is an institution in Chicago and pizza lovers will fight to the death to defend their favorite place to get a pie. Just as Chicagoans have an affinity for crispy crust and melted cheese, the residents of Maui have an ongoing and very serious love affair with the humble fish taco.

The basic equation for this island-centric dish is simple and straight forward and yet almost every Maui eatery worth its salt has its own distinctive take on it. Start with one tortilla, add fresh fish, tomato, lettuce or cabbage, salsa or sauce, and maybe a little cheese and there you have it. Simple right? That’s what I thought when I began this story but, the more research I did and the more people I talked to the more I discovered there is nothing simple about the fish taco in Maui.

Originally intended to be a one part story, the size and scope of this fish taco competition has warranted a two part piece. The winner of this week’s challenge will go head to head with next week’s champion to determine who really has the best fish tacos in Maui. All fish taco purveyors are judged not only on their product but on their service, establishment, price, and overall experience as well. So, without further ado, let’s see the line up for the first round of the Tripulu fish taco showdown.

Maui Tacos - Coming in at the bottom of our competition is local Mexicali chain Maui Tacos. With locations throughout the island, Maui Tacos caters more to those eaters who just want some food fast rather than those looking for a good meal. The tacos at MT were small and at five bucks a pop, not exactly a good deal. The fish was over cooked and accompanied by red beans and cabbage as well as tasteless sour cream based sauce. Though the service was prompt and the restaurant was clean, Maui Tacos maybe best overlooked unless you are in a serious rush.

Fred’s Mexican Café – Coming in at fifth place is Fred’s Mexican Café. Fred’s tacos are constructed with the standard Mahi filet topped with cabbage, salsa, cilantro, and a sweet white cream sauce. The portions are ample and the tacos have a great fresh taste but, the atmosphere at Fred’s is a bit touristy for my liking and just knowing Fred’s is part of a national chain leaves a bad taste in my mouth (no pun intended). Though there are better places for fish tacos, Fred’s taco Tuesday special is definitely worth checking out. The prices of all Fred’s tacos are reduced on Tuesday and choosing an alternate filling (such as calamari or Kalua Pork) will yield much more bang for your buck than going for the straight fish option.

Amigo’s – Coming in at number four is Jesus and gang at Amigo’s. If you are a loyal Tripulu reader you know that Amigo’s is my pick for the best Mexican on Maui but, in a market full of amazing fish tacos, Amigo’s is in the middle of the pack. Made with grilled Mahi and topped with lettuce, cheese, tomato, cilantro, lime, and a side of salsa, Amigo’s fish tacos have a great lime and cilantro bite that is true south of the border. The service is always prompt no matter how busy the restaurant may be (the place was packed when I was there and it still took less than ten minutes to get my food) and the portions are more than generous. Amigo’s has its own version of taco Tuesday with dirt cheap taco prices and free chips and salsa but, with so many other authentic Mexican menu items to choose from, you may be better off with a plate of mouth watering mole or chili verde.

Milagros – Located in Paia, Milagros Food Co. comes in at third place in this week’s competition. Milagros tacos take a departure from the norm using Ahi (instead of the usual mahi), as well as topping their taco with lettuce (instead of cabbage), salsa, cheese, guacamole, Tai chili sauce, and a fresh lime garnish. This fish taco is truly unique combining the sweet heat of the Tai chili sauce with the creamy fresh made guacamole and all for about the same price as some of the less equipped competitors. Milagros offers a beautifully decorated, intimate café setting as well as patio seating to take advantage of the endless Maui sunshine. The staff at Milagros, including owner Al Janneck, were warm and friendly and were more than happy to answer all of my questions no matter how annoying. The only thing keeping Milagros from the top spot is the slight canned tuna taste from the poached Ahi which detracts a bit from the overall freshness of the taco. Despite this small issue, Milagros is a must visit for those in search of a fish taco that offers a bit more.

Eskimo Candy – Taking the runner up spot in this week’s competition is Eskimo Candy. Eskimo Candy is a fresh fish market and seafood supplier as well as being a café, which gives them a definite advantage in the fish taco battle right from the start. Known as much for their seafood chowder as their ultra-fresh fish, Eskimo Candy is a true seafood aficionado’s paradise. After tasting their fish tacos, there is no doubt that the combination of mahi and ono used in Eskimo Candy’s tacos are as fresh as it gets. The fish is lightly blackened and cooked perfectly then topped with lettuce and cheese and served with a side of hot or mild salsa. This simple preparation is all that’s needed with such fresh fish as any other condiments would just mask the unbelievable flavor of the fish. Two tacos are served alongside Mexican rice and a field green salad that tastes like it was picked minutes before service. The café is small and decorated in an over the top nautical theme that would be just as fitting for an amusement park as a seafood restaurant. The staff at Eskimo Candy was very friendly, giving a feeling a familiarity even to the first time visitor. Though their fish tacos fell just a bit short of the top spot, Eskimo Candy is a haven for seafood junkies and one of the best kept secrets on the island. Just make sure and get there early because Eskimo Candy doesn’t do dinner, closing time is 7p.m.

Jawz Island Style Grill – Taking the top spot in round one of the Tripulu fish taco showdown is Jawz Island Style Grill in Kihei. The Jawz fish taco empire was born 15 years ago with one mobile food truck and has grown to a fleet of taco trucks in Maui and San Diego as well as a brick and mortar location in the heart of Kihei. Proprietor Craig Loranger (a Chicago native) serves up three different fish taco options (Mahi, Ono, and Ahi) along with a cornucopia of freshly made slasa options and a heaping helping of warm Midwest hospitality. The décor of Jawz is an unabashed tribute to the island life style with fiberglass marlin and neon Hawaiian beer signs adorning every wall. Every fish taco comes covered with cabbage, Jasmine rice, and Jawz trademark special pink sauce (don’t ask what it’s in it, it’s a secret). This simple yet distinctive combination of ingredients offers the perfect complement to the fresh fish filling selections and pairs perfectly with every salsa option from the freshly made tropical fruit salsa to the five alarm hobenero pineapple carrot salsa. Jawz fish tacos has earned legendary status on the island of Maui for producing the best fish tacos ten bucks can buy and reigns supreme as the champion of round one of the Tripulu fish taco showdown. Check out Tripulu next week for round two of the battle for fish taco supremacy and see who really has what it takes to be the best fish tacos on Maui.