Au Pied de Cochon
Montreal | $$$ | Website
Quebec cuisine suffers from a bit of an identity crisis. Its roots are French-from-France (as locals say it) but it certainly has its own unique products and traditions, yet most of the dishes labeled “Quebecois” are notoriously low-brow. Put those preconceptions to bed for good at Au Pied de Cochon – the indulgent, ingenious brainchild restaurants belonging to Martin Picard, the province’s famous culinary “wild man.” Chef Martin doesn’t just have a passion for Quebecois cuisine, his name may as well mean food in la belle province.
First piece of advice – don’t frequent APC if you’re on a diet. Plates here range from hearty (the onion soup with wild meat starter), to the heavy (any meat entree) to pure gluttony (the famous foie gras poutine), always with a focus on local ingredients and a heavy leaning toward Picard’s – and Quebec’s – favorite meat, pork. A few not to miss dishes include the velvety mashed potatoes with cheese curds and the classic Pudding Chomeur, one of those poor-man staples that have been ramped up and given its due by a trained hand. Foie gras can be had in more than a dozen combinations.
With a small, mildly chaotic and incredibly energetic space, Au Pied de Cochon isn’t for those interested only in the trappings of a fine dining soiree. This is a pure, down-home taste of hearty Quebec with upscale quality, and it’s an unforgettable experience.